TROUBLESHOOTING DIAMOND BLADES |
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| Problem: Uneven Segment Wear Cause: Insufficient water, generally on one side of the blade, which reduces side clearance. Remedy: Flush water system. Make certain that water is being adequately and equally distributed to both sides of the blade. Cause: Equipment defect, which causes the blade to wear out of round. Remedy: Replace bad bearings, worn arbor shaft or misaligned spindle. If using a concrete saw, make certain the engine runs with no vibrations, which cause the blade to pound on a regular basis. Cause: Misaligned saw head. Remedy: Confirm that the saw head alignment is square both vertically and horizontally. |
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| Problem: Segment Loss Cause: The material slips during cutting which causes the blade to twist or jam in the cut, and loosens the segment. Remedy: Hold material firmly while cutting. Cause: Overheating. This is usually detected by a discoloration on the steel center of the blade in the area of the segment loss. Remedy: Check water flow to both sides of the blade and look for line blockages. Cause: Steel center worn thin as a result of undercutting by abrasive fines. Blank often wears to a knife edge which weakens the blank and causes a section to separate. Remedy: Use water to flush fines out of cut. If fines are highly abrasive, wear- retardant cores should be used. Cause: Defective flanges which cause the blade to flutter in the cut or fail to support the blade in perfect alignment. Remedy: Clean foreign material from flange surfaces. Replace flanges if they are under manufacturer's recommended diameter, bent or deformed Cause: Blade is too hard for material being cut, causing excessive dullness and segment separation due to impact or fatigue. Remedy: Use the proper blade specification for the material being cut. |
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| Problem: Cracked segments Cause: Blade is too hard for material being cut. Remedy: Use correct blade with softer bond. |
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| Problem: Cracked Core Cause: Blade is too hard for the material being cut. Remedy: Use correct blade with softer bond. Cause: Improper cutting technique. Remedy: Use steady even pressure to cut and be careful not to twist or jam the blade in the cut. Cause: Overheating caused by inadequate water supply or improper use of dry cutting blades. Remedy: Use adequate water to cool wet cutting blader. Two to five gallons per minute is usually sufficient for concrete saws. Allow adequate airflow around dry cutting blader. NEVER USE A BLADE WITH A CRACKED CORE. |
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| Problem: Loss of Tension Cause: Misaligned saw. Remedy: Check for proper saw alignment Cause: Blade is too hard for the material it is cutting. This creates stress on the steel center. Remedy: Consult dealer to confirm the correct blade in being used. Cause: Cutting material slips causing blade to twist and become kinked or bent. Remedy: Maintain tight grip on the material while sawing. Cause: Blade flanges are undersized or not the same diameter. This creates uneven pressure on the center. Remedy: Make certain blade flanges are proper size and identical diameter. Minimum 3-7/8", 4-1/2" on concrete saws; minimum 6" on diamond blades 30" and larger. Cause: Blade is used at improper RPM. Remedy: Use tachometer to determine that blade shaft is turning at the proper RPMs. This is particularly critical with concrete saws. Cause: Blade is improperly mounted on the arbor shoulder causing it to bend when flanges are tightened. Remedy: Hold blade securely on arbor shoulder until outside flange and nut are firmly tightened. |
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| Problem: Wobbling Blade Cause: Blade is mounted on a defective saw. Remedy: Inspect for bad bearings, bent shaft or worn mounting arbor, check flanges to make sure they are clean, flat and within the manufacturer’s recommended diameter. Cause: Blade is run at the improper operating speed. Remedy: Confirm that the blade shaft is turning at the recommended RPMs to match the tensioned speed of the blade. Use a tachometer on concrete and stone saws to make certain engine is set at the proper speed. Cause: Flange diameters are not identical, causing uneven pressure and the blade blank at the center. Remedy: Use proper size flanges. Cause: Blade bent as a result of dropping or twisting. Remedy: Have manufacturer remove segments and rebraze onto a new blank, if practical. |
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| Problem: Blade worn out of round Cause: Worn shaft bearings on masonry, concrete or stone saws which cause blade to run eccentric and wear out-of-round Remedy: lnstall new blade shaft bearings or blade shaft. as required. Cause: Engine is not properly tuned on concrete saws causing "hunting." Remedy: Tune engine. Cause: Blade arbor hole is damaged from previous mounting. Remedy: If all other blade parameters are in good condition, the arbor hole can be rebored and properly bushed to its original size. Cause: Blade mounting arbor is worn. A groove may have been scored on mounting arbor as a result of previous blade spinning on mounting arbor. When new blade is placed on such a worn arbor, it seats improperly and therefore runs eccentrically. Remedy: Replace worn shaft or mounting arbor bushing. Cause: Blade is slipping on arbor shaft. Remedy: Tighten blade collar of masonry or stone saw. Make certain drive pin is functioning on concrete saw. Cause: Bond is too hard far material, causing machine to "pound" at regular intervals and wearing half of the blade more than the other half. Remedy: Use proper blade specification. |
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| Problem: Arbor Hole Out of Round Cause: Flanges are not properly tightened, permitting blade to either rotate or vibrate on the shaft. Remedy: Wrench tighten the arbor nut to make certain blade is adequately secured and will not rotate on the arbor shaft. Always use hex nuts: never use wing nuts. Cause: Flanges are worn, bent or dirty and do not allow proper blade clamping. Remedy: Clean flanges and make certain they are not worn. Tighten arbor nut. Cause: Blade is not properly mounted. Remedy: Confirm that blade is mounted on the proper diameter of the shaft before tightening arbor nut. On concrete saws, make certain that pinhole slides over arbor drive pin. Never depend on drive pin to actually drive the blade. A drive pin is simply a safety measure to prevent the blade from spinning on the mounting arbor, should the nut loosen. NOTE: Distorted blade arbor holes can be rebored provided they are within tolerance and provided the blank has not been abused. |
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| Problem: Excessive Wear Cause: The wrong blade is used on highly abrasive material. For example. using a glazed tile blade on concrete block. Remedy: Consult the dealer for the proper blade specification for abrasive material. Cause: The blade lacks sufficient coolant. This is often detected by excessive wear in the center of the segment. Remedy: Clean up water system. Make certain water pump is functioning properly. Cause: Wearing out-of-round accelerates wear. Usually this is caused by bad bearings, worn shaft or cutting with a blade that is too hard for the material. Remedy: Inspect bearings and arbor and if worn replace them with new parts before installing another blade. Cause: Insufficient power caused by loose V-belts, inadequate voltage or improper RPMs. Remedy: Tighten belts; replace worn belts; check voltage and use proper extension cord. |
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| Problem: Blade Will Not Cut Cause: Blade has become dull because of continuous use on hard material. Remedy: Dress or sharpen with soft concrete block, sandstone or other abrasive material until diamonds are exposed again. If continual dressing is required the blade matrix is probably too hard for the material being cut. Cause: Failure to "break in" a new blade. Remedy: Allow blade to sharpen itself and the material being cut when the blade is first placed on the saw. Cause: Insufficient power. Remedy: Check belts, voltage and horsepower. |
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Bon Tool Co. has made a serious effort to provide exact and current information, but does not guarantee the accuracy of the data. Bon Tool Co. cannot assume responsibility for the application of information nor guarantee results. |
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