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Recommended Tools for Tile Setting
Rub Brick
Turtleback Sponge
Notched Trowel
Tile Cutter
Straight Edge
Tape Rule
Grout Float
Grout (Consult local building supply center for must suitable grout)
Ceramic Tile Adhesive
Glass Cutter (if you are not using a tile cutter) |
Selecting the Tile
Tiled floors are attractive, abrasion resistant, waterproof and easy to install, making them ideal floor and counter surfaces for bathrooms and kitchens. The amount of tile you will need for your particular project can easily be determined by measuring the surface area you will be covering, and dividing that measurement by the size of the individual tiles. Your local building supply center will help you to determine the quantity of materials you will need. |
Preparing the Surface Area
It is important that the surface area you will be covering is level and smooth, and made of a stiff, nonflexible material. The pre-existing floor should be free from any loose particles, and painted surfaces should be sanded to remove the gloss finish. For larger areas, you can rent an electric sander. If your surface is very uneven, you may need to lay down sheets of 1/4" plywood. Do not use particle board, as it swells when exposed to moisture. A water resistant gypsum wallboard is best for use around a tub or shower. To guarantee a smooth level surface, sand down any high spots and fill in any low spots with mastic. When the mastic has almost dried, sand the spot until it is level with the rest of the surface. |
Planning the Tile Layout
When your tile is set, you will want the rows to run parallel with the walls. It is important to remember that walls are often uneven and corners do not necessarily make a perfect 90 degree angle. You will want to begin by marking lines with chalk that run parallel to the wall or counter's edge. If you live in an older house where the tub may have settled, you will want to make a chalk line a full tile plus an extra 1/8" high that runs parallel to the tub and is measured from the lowest part of the settled tub. The bottom edge of this first course of tiles will have to be cut to compensate for the tub line, while the top edge of this first course will be a good level indicator for the next course.
Begin your layout plan by making grout lines at the most visible area of your floor or wall. Unevenly laid tile due to an uneven surface area can be concealed in less obvious spots. The use of a straightedge, such as a yardstick, can make this layout procedure easier and more reliable. Mark the stick with the width of the tiles you are using, allowing spaces in between each "tile" mark for the grout joint. The width of this grout joint will vary according to how you would like your finished project to look. Some people prefer a smaller grout joint than others. For measuring vertical courses on a wall, be sure to include a spacer for grout on the very bottom and top of your stick to allow for the very top or bottom grout joint. (FIG.#1)
When laying tile on a wall or shower stall, begin your layout at the top and work toward the bottom. If your bottom course is too narrow for a full tile, it is better to have a course of cut tile on the bottom where it is less noticeable.
The type of epoxy and adhesive you use will depend on your particular project. There are different mortars for floors and walls. Be sure to ask your local building supply center for the appropriate material for your project.
All wall and floor fixtures should be removed before you plan your layout. If you choose to keep the toilet bowl in place, be sure to leave a 1/8" joint for grout before measuring and cutting the tile to fit. |
Primer Coat
A primer coat is usually needed to cover the surface area before applying the adhesive coat, particularly if your project is near a tub or shower. Be sure to read the instructions provided with the particular primer you are using. Primer can be applied with a brush or roller and should only be used in a well ventilated area. Do not expose primer to an open flame or high heat source and always use rubber gloves when applying primer, adhesive and grout. |
Cutting Tile
The one aspect of tile setting that most Diy's fear is cutting the tile in a neat, straight line. However, tile cutting can be an easy accomplishment, even without professional tile cutting tools.
Using a grease pencil or chalk, mark the cutting line on the front and back of your tile. If your tile has ridges on the underside, be sure to cut a line parallel to those ridges. Score the line on the glazed topside with the wheel on the head of your Bon tile cutter. Use a straightedge to assure a straight cut. If you are not using a tile cutter, then place the scored tile on a straight nail or large wire and apply even pressure on both sides. (FIG.#2) If using a Bon tile cutter, center the cutter on the score line and press the handle until the tile breaks. Use your rub brick to file and smooth and rough edges. When laying cut tile, place the cut edge on the outside edge or at a corner.
For non-linear cuts to compensate for pipes or a round edge (such as a toilet base), you can use tile clippers to "nibble" out the hole. Always score the line you want to cut first. |
Adhering the Tile
Apply adhesive to sections that you can manage in 30 minutes. For every section you work, mix up a fresh batch. Using your notch trowel, spread the adhesive making arc-like sweeps in several different directions. Lay your first tile in the outermost corner. Be cautious with the amount of adhesive you apply. Too much will result in excess mortar squeezing in between the tiles, leaving no room for the grout. A 1/8" layer is usually adequate. After several tiles have been laid, you can place a 2x4 against the surface of the tiles and gently tap it in several places with a hammer. This will level the tiles with each other and set them to the underlying adhesive. Once the tiles have all been laid, wait at least 24 hours for the adhesive to set before grouting. Clean adhesive smears with alcohol. |
Grouting
Tile grout comes in a variety of forms; pre-mixed, dry mix, cartridge, etc. Pre-mixed grout can be applied straight from the can. If you are using a wet grout, mix it with cool water to the consistency of a heavy cream. Thoroughly soak the surface with water by rubbing it with a sponge. Never apply wet grout to a dry surface, as the tile will soak up the moisture in the grout. Wet grout is best applied with a sponge or squegee. When enough grout has been evenly applied to all the joints it can be compacted with a jointer. (FIG.#3) Once the grout has set, remove the excess from the tile surface with a clean, damp sponge and rub dry with a clean cloth. Most grouts should be sealed for a waterproof joint. |
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