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Recommended Tools for Drywall
Hand Sander
Sand Paper
Utility Saw
8" Drywall Knife
Corner Taping Tool
Plastic Pan
Drywall Joint Compound (Drywall Mud)
Drywall Tape
Utility Knife
Drywall Hammer |
Selecting Drywall
Pre-cut drywall sheets are most often available in 4 ' x 8' panels, conforming to standard wall heights. Longer sheets are also available for higher ceilings. Check with your local building supply center for availability.
Depending on your particular project, drywall sheets are available in a variety of thicknesses. If you are merely resurfacing a pre-existing wall, you may only require 1/4" thickness. If your resurfacing needs require greater thickness for greater soundproofing, you may want to hang a double layer of 3/8" panels. This will create a 3/4" layer on your pre-existing wall. The 1/2" thick panels have good impact resistance and are therefore the standard size for residential construction. Sheets are also available in a 5/8" thickness, which are more often used in premium construction.
If your project requires greater water resistant properties, such as a bathroom, you will need to select a drywall that is designed with moisture resistant compound. Drywall is also available with a foil coating on one side for insulating purposes and with fire resistant properties for those projects requiring such needs. Your local building supply center will help you determine the appropriate size and properties for your needs. |
Hanging Drywall
Before the drywall panels can be hung, you should check if your studs are straight and even. Any protruding spots should be scraped off or sanded down. Any molding around windows and doors should be removed as well.
The most popular method of attaching drywall to the studs is nailing, although screwing and gluing are also used. If you choose to use nails, make sure you have the annularing type nails used for drywall, and that they are long enough to penetrate the studs by at least 3/4". Nails should be spaced 7" apart and not closer than 3/8" from the panel's edge. Drywall hammers are preferable, but if you are using a regular flat-headed hammer, try not to break the surface paper of your panel.
If you choose to use screws, you will need a drill with a clutch, a special bit and
1-1/4 " type W screws. These screws are stronger than nails and can therefore be placed up to 16" apart. As with nailing, avoid placing a screw less than 3/8" from the panel's edge.
The advantage of gluing is a stronger, more sound resistant wall. You may choose to glue your panels if you are using laminated, decorated panels. The adhesive is available in cartridges that are easily used with a caulking gun. The adhesive should be applied in a 1/2" wide strip along the stud. The 1/2" strip is applied in a zig-zag fashion on those studs where two panels meet. You will only need to nail the panels to the studs that are behind the edge of the panel, not the ones in the middle. (FIG.#1)
When applying the panels to the studs, assure a close, firm fit to the ceiling's edge rather than the floor's edge. Any small gaps that appear due to a non-uniform fit will be concealed when the baseboard is put in place. Raising the panel firmly in place is easily achieved with the use of wedge or a foot lifter available at Bon Tool Co. If your panels are applied horizontally, the top panel will need to be affixed first.
When two panels meet to form an inside corner, the second panel laid at the corner will automatically hold the panel laid first against the stud, therefore nailing the edge of the first panel is not necessary.
When two panels meet to form an outside corner, you will need to cap the corner with a metal brace called "beading". |
Cutting Drywall
You will most likely need to cut your drywall panel to compensate for discrepancies in your wall surface, such as windows or electrical sockets. This is easily achieved by first marking the score lines lightly with chalk or pencil. Using your utility knife, score the marked lines just enough to cut through the paper surface. Bend the panel backward or against your knee until it snaps and then slice the paper surface on the back-side. To cut a linear hole in the panel (as opposed to a circular hole), score the outside lines as indicated above. Then, before you "pop" out the piece, score an "X" in the middle of the hole that reaches all the corners. Gently tap the center of the "X' until it falls through. (FIG.#1) |
Taping
Taping is necessary to conceal and strengthen joints and corners. Joint compound is available premixed or in powder to be mixed on the job. Only use small amounts in your plastic pan at one time, as compound dries quickly and will cause lumps on your flat surface.
Apply enough compound along the joints to cover the depressions made by the nails spreading it with your drywall knife. Lay the tape along the length of the applied compound and adhere it firmly by sliding the edge of your knife along the tape. (FIG.#2) Cover the tape with a layer of compound and spread the compound flat with your knife. Allow the compound to dry fully and sand it lightly. Another, wider application of compound will need to be applied to cover the dry layer. If you anticipate painting your wall, you will need a third layer of compound, again making this final application wider and sanded smoother than the previous ones.
When taping an inside corner, use your corner knife to achieve a smooth application. Smooth the additional layers of compound with the corner knife as well. (FIG.#3) You will not need to tape over the metal beading that covers any outside corners. However, you will need to apply the necessary number of compound layers as you did with the taped joints. |
Filling the Joints
Filling "dimples" that are caused by nail and screw depressions is similar to the compound application applied to joints. There is no need for tape and two applications compound are generally sufficient. |
Hanging Ceilings
Applying drywall panels to the ceiling follows the same general procedure used for walls. You will most likely need another person to help you support the panel. When the first row of panels adjacent to the wall is complete, you will want to cut the first panel of the next row in half, so their joints all meet in one spot. Staggering the joints, as in bricklaying, prevents any weak spots. (FIG.#4)
Any cutting in ceiling panels to allow for light fixtures or trap doors should be scored and cut before the panel is applied to the ceiling. |
Textured Wall Surface
You can achieve decorative textures on your walls before painting them by applying a complete covering of compound to the panels and using various tools, such as sponges or trowels, to create your desired texture.
Remember to allow all drywall compounds to dry thoroughly before you begin to paint. |
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